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SIX SITES IN THE CAMPANIA REGION
NAPLES
Naples is one of Italy's major
cities owing to its dimensions and number of inhabitants. Bordered by hillsides,
Naples is situated on the celebrated Gulf of Naples renown for its spectacular
views and temperate climate. Other cities, localities and islands are also
situated on this body of water and for centuries, have been the preferred
destination of privileged travelers from the world over.
As the capitol of a kingdom for
almost six centuries, Naples inherited monuments and institutions rivaling those
in any other major European city: numerous architecturally significant churches,
most of which built between the eighteenth century and the Napoleonic period and
adorned with enormous quantities of art; four castles, the National
Archaeological, Capodimonte and San Martino Museums, the National and Girolamini
Libraries, the State and the Historic Bank of Naples Archives, the San Carlo
Theatre, Institutions of Science (the Aquarium, the Botanical Gardens and the
Astronomic Observatory). These monuments and institutions are among the oldest
in Europe.
Local universities include
lUniversità degli Studi founded by Emperor Federico II in 1224 and the
Orientale whose origins date hack to the historic College of Chinese. There are
important decorative cycles dating from the early Christian era (frescos in the
catacombs and the mosaics in the Baptistery of San Giovanni) to the nineteenth
century. The works of some of Italy and Europes most important artists (Giotto,
Pietro Cavallini, Simone Martini, Tino di Camaino, Masaccio, Donatello,
Francesco Laurana, Giovanni Bellini, Mantenga, Botticelli, Raffaello,
Michelangelo, Correggio, Tiziano, Lotto, Bruegel, Caravaggio, Carracci, Guido
Reni, Ribera, Luca Giordano, Mattia Preti, Canova) can be seen in addition to,
as can only be expected, those of artists from the Neapolitan School who often,
particularly in the eighteenth century, rivaled their European counter-parts.
Neapolitan artistic heritage
rose to the pinnacles of the field of music with a celebrated series of
illustrious maestros in the eighteenth century. This artistic tradition
overlapped into the city's theatrical life and, on a more popular level, even
more so into the world of easy listening music, to the point that, abroad,
Neapolitan melodies have almost become a symbol of Italy.
The area is also noted for
celebrations commemorating particularly solemn religious holidays including Holy
Friday (in Procida and Amalfi), Easter Sunday and the festivities dedicated to
various local patron saints, the Feast of the Gigli in Nola on 28 June, the two
feast days dedicated to the Naples patron saint, San Gennnaro, in May and on the
19th of September and the Feast of Our Lady of Carmine which falls on the 16th
of July.
Neapolitan craftsmanship boasts
a long heritage which is theoretically leads back to the splendid
eighteenth-century tradition of artistic productions and includes porcelain,
statues and crèches. The latter can found during the months of November and
December in the small shops located in via San Gregorio Armeno. The colourfull,
lively local markets abound in a triumph of vegetable and fish stands which
constitute the basic, fundamental ingredients of typical Neapolitan and Campana
regional cuisine. Notwithstanding, this area is primarily known the world over
for three local products and dishes: pasta in any form and shape, mozzarella (buffalo
milk cheese) and pizza. Many typical local confectionery products are also
renowned such as pastiera (a wheat-based cake), sfogliatelle (ricotta and
candied fruit-filed puffs), zeppole (sweet baked or fried doughnuts) and special
confectionery for specific holidays such as Carnival, All Souls Day and
Christmas. Naples can he reached by air (The Capodichino Airport is conveniently
located close to the city), by ship (the port is located in the city centre);
and is well-connected with Rome (less than two hours by train) and other Italian
cities by an excellent rail and motor way network. The city has a well-developed
system of urban transportation which includes three funiculars (owing to its
orographical conformation), a new underground subway line (currently under
construction) and a series of commuter railway systems linking the city to the
surrounding areas (Cirumflegrea, Cumana and Circumvesuviana). Hydrofoils and
ships provide continuous service to the local islands and localities on the
Coast. Naples offers tourists a wide range of hotels and pensions (the most
prestigious are located on the Coast near Castel dellOvo) and innumerable
restaurants and pizzerias.
With the objective of
re-launching culturally oriented tourism, the Regional Council has opted for a
no-hands-barred approach. Plans have been drawn up for enhancing the entire
museum network with particular focus on the Capodimonte, Palazzo Reale (the
Royal Palace) San Martino, SantElmo and National Museums. The conference
facilities at Castel dell'Uovo are also schedules for improvements to enable the
structure to host larger and therefore more international conferences. Thanks to
special funding (68 million Euro) earmarked for the agreement signed by the
Minister, services will be reorganized in the mare important museums and these
structures will be able to provide complementary services such as five-star
restaurants offering the finest in regional cuisine and wine. Additionally,
plans call for the creation of an historic archive in the San Carlo Theatre, new
exhibition areas for the Filangieri and the Floridiana museums and the San
Lorenzo and Santa Chiara Museum are scheduled for renovation. The list of "re-discovered'
monuments includes the Villa of Pollione, the Grotto of Seiano, the Tomb Virgil,
the Roman Theatre and the Neapolitan Crypt. Plans have already been detailed for
the recuperation of the island of Gaiola.
THE PHLEGRAEAN FIELDS
Campi Flegrei is the volcanic
area north, yet geologically part, of Naples. From at least the sixteenth
century onwards, a visit to this area was an integral part of a visit to the
city for four fundamental reasons: the vast amount of literature and history
permeating these enchanted sites so dear to Virgil and Horace; the abundance and
beauty of the archaeological ruins, particularly those of Roman origin which can
be found almost everywhere; the unique volcanic phenomena which have given the
area an abundance of thermal spa areas since ancient times and lastly, but most
importantly, the natural beauty of this area is spectacular with magnificent
views of Vesuvius and the islands of Ischia, Procida and Capri.The Phlegraean
Fields offer endless opportunities for a modern-day Grand Tour and are easily
accessible from Naples by motorway or by local commuter trains (Circumflegrea
and Cumana). In addition the ancient sites, one is keenly aware that, throughout
the centuries, countless visitors from all over the world visited the area and
also left their mark.The mere mention of the more interesting sites to visit
conjures visions of celebrated panoramas and monuments. An excellent
introduction to the Phlegraean Fields is from the belvedere of the Camaldoli
Hermitage in Naples which offers a magnificent view extending from Vesuvius all
the way to the Bay of Gaeta and includes Agnano with its baths and the racetrack,
the Astroni crater (a former royal hunting reserve now under the protection of
the World Wildlife Fund), the Solfatara, a two-kilometre crater and an
extraordinary example of a dormant volcano where singular phenomena including
small mud-volcanoes, fumaroles and mofettes can be viewed. Further north is the
city of Pozzuoli which was founded in the sixth century B.C. and is graced with
a quaint historic centre, Rione Terra, currently under restoration. There are
many grand Roman monuments such as the Capitolium (upon which the cathedral
would be built), the Macellum; the Temple of Serapide famous for its columns
with evident signs of sea shells and stone-boring mussels bearing witness to the
effects of bradyseism which has characterized the area for centurie; Villa
Avellino, the Cardito
Pools, the enormous Amphitheatre (second only to the
Coliseum in Rome and the Amphitheatre of Santa Maria Capua Vetere) as well as
the mausoleums along Via Campana.Beyond Pozzuoli lie the Lucrino and evocative
Averno Lakes, considered by the Romans to be the entrance to Hades, and Baia
where, despite the devastation brought on by modern development, Horace's words
to Maecenas "Nullus in orbis sinus Baiis praelucet amoenis" still hold true. The
archaeological Park in Baia is of interest with the remains of an imperial
palace, the Temples of Diana and Venus and the sixteenth-century Castle which
houses an archaeological museum where statues brought up from the surrounding
sea may be viewed. Beyond Baia are Bacoli, with Agrippina's Sepulchre, Cento
Camerelle and above all the imposing Piscina Mirabile, and Miseno - the ancient
port of the Roman navy.This is a land of fire and water, volcanic craters and
lakes, mystery and enchantment. History, myth and culture are inextricably
intertwined and blend into the beauty of the land becoming an integral part of
its nature and very much a part of everyday life.This area was appropriately
named Flegrei or burning embers by the first Greeks colonists who settled on
these shores in the fifth century B.C. attracted by the fiery lava overflowing
the rims of Monte Epomeo in Ischia. These are fertile and generous lands with
green and luxuriant hillsides and dotted with archaeological sites of the utmost
historical value. With sun-filled panoramas, dark lava-rich soil, golden beaches
and jagged rocks sculpted by the force of the wind and volcanic fires.Thus, not
merely by chance, the Regional Council has directed a substantial part of the
191 million Euro in funding earmarked for cultural preservation to the
development of the Phelgraean Fields in order to finance 45 projects aimed at
enhancing the tourism potential of this land so dear to Virgil and Horace. These
projects include splendid proposals: archaeological walks through Rione Terra's
unexplored maze of roads to view the aristocratic villas of ancient Puteoli;
visits to the Flavio Amphitheatre, the Arena of the South, which is now open to
the public for concerts and performances; an enchanting itinerary leading from
the shores of mythical Lake Averno to the mysteries of the outer lying parkland;
the Acropolis of Cuma through the Grotto of Cocceio. Not only, but there's also
a grand tour of the treasures of the sunken city of Baia and the archaeological
museum of the Aragonese Castle soon to be host a new section dedicated to the
local history of bradyseisms and volcanic activity. From the Piscina Mirabilis
and Miseno's Odeon and the re-discovery of the Cuma monumental complex and park,
where new excavations are scheduled in the area between the acropolis and the
port with the participation of international archaeological community. Then
again, there is also the unique Casa Vanvitelliana with its graceful lines
rising from the middle of Lake Fusaro, the Bourbon gardens and the minor
archaeological excavations in the towns of Bacoli, Monte di Procida and Quarto.
All of these towns lead back to Pozzuoli - the centre of this magical territory
that world knows as the Phlegraean Fields (Campi Flegrei).
HERCULANEUM AND POMPEII
The cities and villas destroyed
by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 A.D. constitute one of the worlds most
importat archaelogical sites indeed, Pompeii is one of Italy's most visited
sites. The discovery of these ruins in the eighteenth-century triggered a
revival of neoclassic studies in Europe and no other place in the world evokes
such a clear image of Roman life in the first century A.D.Herculaneum was the
first area to be discovered and excavated with methods which today would be not
defined as scientific inasmuch as contemporary archaeologists were primarily
interested in searching for major works of art.The two cities were, and remain,
very different. Pompeii was a thriving commercial and mercantile centre while
Herculaneum was primarily distinguished and residential in character. The manner
in which the two cities were destroyed differed as did the excavation techniques,
and lastly, Pompeii
was almost three times the size of Herculaneum and thus has
only been partially excavated while the smallness of Herculaneum conveys a more
intimate and almost familiar sense of Roman times. Unlike Pompeii, which was
destroyed by a heavy downpour of stone and burning ash that caused the roofs of
buildings to collapse under the weight, Herculaneum was buried by a combination
of volcanic material and flood water which solidified to the point of almost
becoming tufa rock. This phenomenon helped to conserve the upper floors of the
homes as well as much of the wood-work (furnishings and structural items) which
were, however, carbonised. Of particular interest are the Houses of Sannitica
and of the Cervi (deer) and those named for their most outstanding
characteristic: the House of gratticio (trellis), the House of the mosaic atrium
and that of the wooden partition as well as the Telefo freeze, the two thermal
complexes, the main decuman (toad) and the palaestra. Herculaneum can be visited
in a few hours whereas much more time is required to view Pompeii which is far
larger and, just as modern-day cities, can be seen in several days according to
various itineraries. The most important monuments centre around the area of the
Forum, in via dell'Abbondanza, in the theatre district, in the so-called new
excavations, in the VI region (the Houses of the Vettii, the Faun, and the
Golden Cupids) and along via dei Sepolcri (the Villa of Mysteries). These
excavations are of extraordinary archaeological value. The project agreed to by
the Regional Council and the Ministry is not limited to re-launching the world
famous historical centres of Pompeii and Herculaneum but the marvellous although
lesser known areas of Stabia, Oplonti and Lettera as well. The available funds
amount to 70 million Euro. Work will initially focus on
structural consolidation
and enhancement of services to facilitate access to the magical excavations of
Pompeii, followed by a long-awaited plan of recuperation for the famous roman
boat in Herculaneum which was buried in mud in wake of Vesuvius's eruption
together with the ancient city's port. Furthermore, plans call for the
restoration of the splendid villas in Stabia with the appreciated participation
of scholars from the University of Maryland, Poppaea's villa in Oplonti and the
fascinating Villa dei Papiri (papyrus). Excavations are to resume at the site
near the castle in Lettere and road infrastructure work is called for to
facilitate access to the Vesuvian villas.
CASERTA
In keeping with the examples of
other eighteenth century European Courts, Charles of Bourbon decided to
construct one of the most splendid monuments in the Kingdom of Naples: a large
royal palace located near, yet distinctly separated from, the capital: in other
words - an Italian Versailles.
The large plains to the north
of Naples were deemed as well suited for the project and the selected area was
located at the base of the hills upon which lies the medieval town of
Casertavecchia.
The great sovereign's project
was designed and carried out by Carlo Vanvitelli, one of the century's most
brilliant architects. Work began 1752 and was brought to a conclusion in 1774 at
which time Charles had left Naples to become Charles III, King of Spain and
Vanvitelli had passed away shortly before seeing his project to an
end. The
immense 247m x 184m rectangular royal palace is best understood when considered
in an urban perspective with its spectacular gardens as an integral part of the
whole. Visitors are immediately struck by several of the rooms which best
represent the grandeur of a royal residence, the genius of the architect and the
distinct taste and style of the century such as the intricate complex formed by
the lower-level entrance, the monumental stairway and the upper-level entrance
as well as the Palatina Chapel, the Royal apartments (of particular interest are
the elegant decorations and furnishings of Charles' successor, Ferdinand IV) and
the Court Theatre.
The Park is laid out along a
central axis which is approximately 3 km in length and can be viewed by bus or
horse-drawn carriage. Along the route, there are a series of spectacular fish
ponds and ornate statues and fountains which are fed by a large waterfall
originating in a grotto on a nearby, 204 m hill. A 40 km-long aqueduct was
especially constructed for this purpose and visitors would be well advised to
include a visit to the section of the aqueduct known as Ponti della Valle (valley
bridges) which span over a valley at 56 meters in height and are 529 meters in
length.
One of the Garden's most
fascinating features is the English Garden, a lovely example of
eighteenth-century landscaping with its wealth of exotic trees and dotted with
contemporary reproduction artifacts and various architectural styles. The 50
million Euro plan agreed to by the Regional Council and the Ministry calls for
new museum structures in the Bourbon Royal Palace, landscaping work in the Park
and the English Garden and the restoration of the old San Leucio factory and
belvedere.
PAESTUM AND VELIA
The Campana Coasts were settled
between the seventh and sixth centuries by Greek colonists B.C. who left their
native lands to found new urban centers along the coasts of much of the
Mediterranean Basin. Paestum e Velia (Poseidonia and Elea for the Greeks) were
among the many settlements founded and are noteworthy from an archaeological
standpoint as well as for the role their re-discovery played in the evolution of
eighteenth and nineteenth century European culture.
Velia, located to the south
near the modern-day city of Ascea, can be reached by motorway through the
enthralling Cilento National Park or by train (Ascea). The city was founded in
540 B.C. by colonists from Focea, a Greek city in Asia Minor, and is known for
its illustrious school of philosophy which produced philosophers of the caliber
of Parmenide and Zenone. The ancient ruins are situated in splendid isolation
along a promontory overlooking the sea and include the lovely Porta Rosa.
Further north, and more easily
accessible from Naples, lies Paestum, founded in the early sixth century B.C. as
a colony of Sibari which was itself an Achaean colony located in Calabria. The
thriving and vigorous colony of Paestum slowly fell into decline and was
abandoned in the early Middle Ages. Today, it is one of Italy's most important
archaeological centers owing to its size and the rarity and beauty of the
conserved ruins. The city walls, complete with towers and gates, are still
intact and the three Doric temples, built between the early sixth and mid-fifth
centuries B.C., clearly illustrate the gradual evolution of the Doric style
which can then be admired in all of its harmonious solemnity in the nearby "Temple
of Neptune", one of the best conserved buildings of this type in the world. The
Museum houses many treasures including Doric metope depicting Heraion at the
mouth of the Sele (a nearby river situated in a fascinating marsh land) and the
painted marble slabs on the Tomb of the Tuffatore, an unique example of Greek
fifth
century B.C. painting of extraordinary quality. Here too, the itineraries
are of extraordinary historical value. The Regional and Ministerial plan calls
for major work in the archaeological area and the Paestum museum as well as the
creation of new exhibit facilities and restoration laboratories. In Velia, the
plans focus primarilyon a relauching of the excavations site and in the interim
the ancient city walls are to be consolidated and the structure of the
historical complex open to an increasing number of tourists and visitors. One of
the projects is aimed at restoring the House of Frescoes. For the areas of Velia
and Paestum, the approved projects call for an expenditure of 56 million euro.
THE CARTHUSIAN MONASTERY OF
PADULA
The San Lorenzo Monastery in
Padula is easy to reach by following the Salerno-Reggio Calabria motorway (Buona-bitacolo-Padula
exit). It is one of the most important monasteries in all of Italy and certainly
the largest in the southern part of the peninsula (51,500 square meters). This
large monastery was founded in 1306 and for many centuries was the most
important economic and cultural centre of the Valley of Diano. The Carthusians
played a fundamental role in the draining the area and putting the surrounding
land to crop.
Following the suppression of
monasteries in 1866, the art work, was designated for various uses the Monastery
of San Lorenzo, which had already been stripped of most of its art work was
designated for various uses including that of prisoner of war camp for enemy
soldiers during the two World Wars. Renovated with painstaking care following
the 1980 earthquake, today the entire monastery is open to the public. Of
particular note are the church (the only area which still houses precious works
of art), the prior's apartments with its delightful garden, the large, 12,000
square-meters cloister, the kitchens and the extremely elegant
eighteenth-century monumental staircase.
The plan of intervention, as
defined in the Regional-Ministerial plans, has allocated 31 million Euro for a
relaunching of tourism for the splendid Padula Monastery. Justly so, much
emphasis has been places upon the requalification of the environment surrounding
this architectural jewel and emblem of Campana culture. A special project has
been drawn up for the restoration of the San Lorenzo complex.
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